Even though your dog loves you, she may sometimes like to run away. Some dogs do it all the time. Others respond to certain triggers. Some are like magicians and seem to be able to get out of any fence.

Although your pet may just go next door and back, running away can be dangerous. She could get hurt or could get lost and never come home.

Here’s a look at why your pet might be heading out and how you can help keep her home.

Why Dogs Escape

Frustration. Your dog might figure out a way to take off if she’s bored. Maybe you left her alone for a long time and she’s lonely. Or she may have lots of energy to use up because she doesn’t have toys or other dogs to play with.

Or maybe she’s having more fun somewhere else. She could be going to a neighbor’s house where there are other dogs or kids to play with.

Separation anxiety. Your dog might hit the road because it stresses her out to be apart from you. Does she get nervous when you get ready to leave? Does she destroy things in the house when you’re out? Or have accidents even though she’s housetrained? These can all be signs of separation anxiety.

A dog with separation anxiety will usually run away right after you leave. The good news is she’ll probably stick close to home.

Fear. Some dogs run because they’re scared. Common fears include thunderstorms and fireworks. About 1 in 5 lost pets goes missing after a loud noise.

Sex drive. A dog that isn’t fixed may escape in search of a mate. Dogs become sexually mature when they’re around 6 months old. Because their drive is so high, it can be very hard to keep them confined.

How to Keep Your Dog From Running Away

To prevent frustration …

• Play with or walk her every day.
• Give her fun toys while you’re gone, including puzzle toys to keep her busy.
• Keep your dog inside when you can’t watch her.
• Take her to doggy day care or have a friend walk her if you’ll be gone for a long time.
• Teach her commands or tricks and practice them often. Learn to play fetch or Frisbee.

If she has separation anxiety …

• If the problem is mild, give her a special treat each time you go, like a peanut butter-stuffed puzzle toy. Don’t make a big deal when you leave or return.
• If the issue is more serious, you might need to try conditioning. To start, put on your shoes or pick up your keys, but don’t leave. Do this over and over until she isn’t stressed. Go out for a few seconds at first. Slowly increase the time you’re gone. A vet or trainer can help.

If she’s afraid …

• If you know what the problem is, leave her inside when she’s likely to hear the trigger sound like thunder or fireworks.
• Give her a safe place to get away like a basement or windowless room. Leave on music or a loud fan to help with the noise.
• Ask your vet or a trainer for tips on how to get her used to the noise that scares her. This might involve playing recordings of the sound. Your vet may also suggest anti-anxiety medication.

If it’s a sexual issue …

• Have your dog spayed or neutered as soon as possible.

Tips to Keep Your Dog Safe

Take these steps to keep your dog from wandering and to help find her if she does take off.

• Make sure she’s microchipped and always wears a collar with an ID and your phone number.

• Check gates and doors anytime a visitor, yard worker, or repair person comes to your home.

• Hold on to your dog’s collar when people come to the door, or put her in her crate or another room.

• Teach your dog a solid “stay” command.

• Never let your dog off her leash when you’re out walking.

• When you find a runaway, don’t chase her. She might think you’re playing a game. Stop running, sit on the ground and call her instead.

• Always reward her when she returns to you. Never punish her when she returns – she’ll link it with bad things and may not come.

Exposure to winter’s dry, cold air and chilly rain, sleet and snow can cause chapped paws and itchy, flaking skin, but these aren’t the only discomforts pets can suffer. Winter walks can become downright dangerous if chemicals from ice-melting agents are licked off of bare paws. To help prevent cold weather dangers from affecting your pet’s health, please heed the following advice from our experts:

• Repeatedly coming out of the cold into the dry heat of your home can cause itchy, flaking skin. Keep your home humidified and towel dry your pet as soon as he comes inside, paying special attention to his feet and in-between the toes. Remove any snow balls from between his foot pads.

• Never shave your dog down to the skin in winter, as a longer coat will provide more warmth. If your dog is long-haired, simply trim him to minimize the clinging ice balls, salt crystals and de-icing chemicals that can dry his skin, and don’t neglect the hair between his toes. If your dog is short-haired, consider getting him a coat or sweater with a high collar or turtleneck with coverage from the base of the tail to the belly. For many dogs, this is regulation winter wear.

• Bring a towel on long walks to clean off stinging, irritated paws. After each walk, wash and dry your pet’s feet and stomach to remove ice, salt and chemicals—and check for cracks in paw pads or redness between the toes.

• Bathe your pets as little as possible during cold spells. Washing too often can remove essential oils and increase the chance of developing dry, flaky skin. If your pooch must be bathed, ask your vet to recommend a moisturizing shampoo and/or rinse.

• Massaging petroleum jelly or other paw protectants into paw pads before going outside can help protect from salt and chemical agents. Booties provide even more coverage and can also prevent sand and salt from getting lodged between bare toes and causing irritation. Use pet-friendly ice melts whenever possible.

• Like coolant, antifreeze is a lethal poison for dogs and cats. Be sure to thoroughly clean up any spills from your vehicle, and consider using products that contain propylene glycol rather than ethylene glycol.
• Pets burn extra energy by trying to stay warm in wintertime. Feeding your pet a little bit more during the cold weather months can provide much-needed calories, and making sure she has plenty of water to drink will help keep her well-hydrated and her skin less dry.

• Make sure your companion animal has a warm place to sleep, off the floor and away from all drafts. A cozy dog or cat bed with a warm blanket or pillow is perfect.

• Remember, if it’s too cold for you, it’s probably too cold for your pet, so keep your animals inside. If left outdoors, pets can freeze, become disoriented, lost, stolen, injured or killed. In addition, don’t leave pets alone in a car during cold weather, as cars can act as refrigerators that hold in the cold and cause animals to freeze to death.

Adopting a dog can be overwhelming if you don’t know where to begin, but bringing home a pup is also fun and exciting! This milestone is the first bonding moment of many between you and your new fuzzy friend. To help ease that stress, here are ten things you can do to ensure a smooth transition for everyone.

1. Gather His Supplies

Get everything you’ll need to make him safe and comfortable before bringing him home. In addition to the basics—a collar and leash, as well as food and water bowls—you’ll also need a dog bed, pet gate, toys, treats, and grooming supplies. It’s also a good idea to have training pads and enzymatic cleaner on hand for accidents in the early stages of house-training.

2. Prepare Your Home

Similar to babyproofing, it’s always a smart and safe idea to ready your space before your pup comes home. Walk through your home and stow away items that might be harmful to small or overly curious pups, and pick up those items you don’t want to get chewed.

You should prepare the rest of the family, too: Discuss which family members will take up feeding, walking, and training. If other animals already live at home, be sure their shots are up-to-date for everyone’s safety. And if you have any cats, you should have a designated dog-free area where they can retreat, giving them a way to acclimate to the new arrival’s excitement on their own time. This may seem like overkill to some, but this preparation helps keep your pooch safe and eases everyone’s transition process.

3. Assign a Safe Space for Him

Just as you would for existing pets, make the same private space for your new one. Some pet parents have an aversion to dog crates, but the nonprofit Best Friends holds that dogs actually see them as their own room to rest, much like a den. They also serve as a place to feel safe while they adjust. If you’d prefer not to use a crate, of course, use a pet gate to block off a room just for him. You can visit him there to help the bonding process, but keep kids and other pets out for the time being.

4. Plan How (and When) to Bring Him Home

If possible, take a few days off work or plan to pick your dog up on a weekend when you have free time. But don’t pick him up at the beginning of a long vacation; if he gets used to you constantly being home, he can develop separation anxiety when you go back to work. Have someone else drive you to pick him up, or ride along to help comfort him while you drive. Don’t forget to take his collar and leash, and bring him straight home without making any distracting stops.

5. Show Your Dog around the House

Keep him on leash as you let him explore and sniff inside. Show him his food, bed, and toys, and let him know what’s off limits with short but firm commands such as “no” or “leave it.”

6. Explore the Yard on Leash

Adopted dogs should have plenty of time and space to sniff out their new surroundings. If you’ve designated a potty space in your yard, lead him to it and reward him with a treat when he uses it successfully.

7. Introduce the Family

The Animal Rescue League recommends bringing family members and other dogs outside one at a time to meet the new canine. Keep other dogs on their leashes and supervise their interactions, keeping in mind that too heavy an introduction can cause them to become territorial with the new arrival. Restrain kids (and other parents) from kissing or hugging the dog (however adorable he is), but they’re free to make friends with a sniff and a treat.

8. Switch Your Dog’s Food Slowly

If you can, incorporate some of the food the shelter or breeder was feeding him, and gradually switch your dog’s food to the brand you intend to serve him regularly in order to avoid digestion issues due to too quick a change.

9. Begin Training Right Away

Even adult dogs who were previously housebroken will require a little house training. If you plan to crate train your dog, introduce him to his crate right away, and practice leaving him in it—with a toy—for short periods while you step out of the house to let him acclimate. Interested in formal obedience training? You’ll still want to start working with him to establish the rules from day one.

10. Get Him Checked by a Vet

Within a week of bringing him home, you should visit a veterinarian for a health check and to make sure he has all his vaccinations.

Adopting a dog is a big transition for both the dog and your family. Covering these basics will help your new dog feel secure in his new surroundings and make it easier to bond with your new wet-nosed pal.

House-training your dog or puppy requires patience, commitment and lots of consistency. Accidents are part of the process, but if you follow these basic house-training guidelines, you can get the newest member of your family on the right track in a few weeks’ time.

Establish a routine

Like babies, puppies do best on a regular schedule. The schedule teaches them that there are times to eat, times to play and times to do their business. Generally speaking, a puppy can control their bladder one hour for every month of age. So if your puppy is two months old, they can hold it for about two hours. Don’t go longer than this between bathroom breaks or they’re guaranteed to have an accident.

Take your puppy outside frequently—at least every two hours—and immediately after they wake up, during and after playing, and after eating or drinking.

Pick a bathroom spot outside, and always take your puppy (on a leash) to that spot. While your puppy is relieving themselves, use a specific word or phrase that you can eventually use before they go to remind them what to do. Take them out for a longer walk or some playtime only after they have eliminated.

Reward your puppy every time they eliminate outdoors. Praise or give treats—but remember to do so immediately after they’ve finished, not after they come back inside. This step is vital, because rewarding your dog for going outdoors is the only way to teach what’s expected of them. Before rewarding, be sure they’re finished. Puppies are easily distracted and if you praise too soon, they may forget to finish until they’re back in the house.

Put your puppy on a regular feeding schedule. What goes into a puppy on a schedule comes out of a puppy on a schedule. Depending on their age, puppies usually need to be fed three or four times a day. Feeding your puppy at the same times each day will make it more likely that they’ll eliminate at consistent times as well, making housetraining easier for both of you.

Pick up your puppy’s water dish about two and a half hours before bedtime to reduce the likelihood that they’ll need to relieve themselves during the night. Most puppies can sleep for approximately seven hours without needing a bathroom break. If your puppy does wake you up in the night, don’t make a big deal of it; otherwise they will think it is time to play and won’t want to go back to sleep. Turn on as few lights as possible, don’t talk to or play with your puppy, take them out and then return them to bed.

Supervise your puppy

Don’t give your puppy an opportunity to soil in the house; keep an eye on them whenever they’re indoors.

Tether your puppy to you or a nearby piece of furniture with a six-foot leash if you are not actively training or playing. Watch for signs that your puppy needs to go out. Some signs are obvious, such as barking or scratching at the door, squatting, restlessness, sniffing around or circling. When you see these signs, immediately grab the leash and take them outside to their bathroom spot. If they eliminate, praise them and reward with a treat.

Keep your puppy on leash in the yard. During the housetraining process, your yard should be treated like any other room in your house. Give your puppy some freedom in the house and yard only after they become reliably housetrained.

When you can’t supervise, confine

When you’re unable to watch your puppy at all times, restrict them to an area small enough that they won’t want to eliminate there.

• The space should be just big enough to comfortably stand, lie down and turn around. You can use a portion of a bathroom or laundry room blocked off with baby gates.

• Or you may want to crate train your puppy. (Be sure to learn how to use a crate humanely as a method of confinement.) If your puppy has spent several hours in confinement, you’ll need to take them directly to their bathroom spot as soon as you return.

Mistakes happen

Expect your puppy to have a few accidents in the house—it’s a normal part of housetraining. Here’s what to do when that happens:

• Interrupt your puppy when you catch them in the act.

• Make a startling noise (be careful not to scare them) or say “OUTSIDE!” and immediately take them to their bathroom spot. Praise your pup and give a treat if they finish there.

• Don’t punish your puppy for eliminating in the house. If you find a soiled area, it’s too late to administer a correction. Just clean it up. Rubbing your puppy’s nose in it, taking them to the spot and scolding them or any other punishment will only make them afraid of you or afraid to eliminate in your presence. Punishment will often do more harm than good.

• Clean the soiled area thoroughly. Puppies are highly motivated to continue soiling in areas that smell like urine or feces.

It’s extremely important that you use these supervision and confinement procedures to minimize the number of accidents. If you allow your puppy to eliminate frequently in the house, they’ll get confused about where they’re supposed to go, which will prolong the housetraining process.

Make plans for when you’re away

If you have to be away from home more than four or five hours a day, this may not be the best time for you to get a puppy. Instead, you may want to consider an older dog who can wait for your return. If you already have a puppy and must be away for long periods of time, you’ll need to:

• Arrange for someone, such as a responsible neighbor or a professional pet sitter, to take them for bathroom breaks.

• Alternatively, train them to eliminate in a specific place indoors. Be aware, however, that doing this can prolong the process of housetraining. Teaching your puppy to eliminate on newspaper may create a life-long surface preference, meaning that even as an adult they may eliminate on any newspaper lying around the living room.

• If you plan to paper-train, confine them to an area with enough room for a sleeping space, a playing space and a separate place to eliminate. In the designated elimination area, use either newspapers (cover the area with several layers of newspaper) or a sod box. To make a sod box, place sod in a container such as a child’s small, plastic swimming pool. You can also find dog-litter products at a pet supply store.

• If you have to clean up an accident outside the designated elimination area, put the soiled rags or paper towels inside it afterward to help your puppy recognize the scented area as the place where they are supposed to eliminate.

Puppy’s first shots

Puppies need their first vaccinations at six to eight weeks old. Whether you adopt a puppy or buy one, make sure you get any medical records. In their first year, fur-babies will need to visit the vet a few times for immunizations and regular booster shots.

When to vaccinate?

Vaccines are only effective once a puppy has been weaned. Your vet will advise you on the immunizations that are best for your dog, which depend on many factors including where you live and how many other pets are in your home.

Most states require that all dogs be vaccinated against rabies. Be sure to keep proof that your dog’s shots are up-to-date.

Must-have shots

All puppies should be immunized against parvovirus, distemper, rabies and hepatitis.

Vaccination schedule

Puppies receive most of their vaccinations every two to four weeks until they are at least 14 weeks old. Some vaccinations are given as a combination, such as the DHLPPC, which helps protect against distemper, hepatitis, leptospirosis, parainfluenza, parvo and corona. Other vaccinations are administered one at a time.

If your dog is over 16 weeks old and isn’t up-to-date on shots, or if you’re not sure, it’s better to be safe than sorry: Your vet may recommend starting the vaccination process again. You can use this chart to help you keep track of when your puppy needs which shots:

DHLPPC

• First vaccination: 6 to 8 weeks
• Second vaccination: 9 to 11 weeks
• Third vaccination: 12 to 14 weeks
• Fourth vaccination: 16 to 17 weeks
• Booster shots: 12 months

Bordetella

• First vaccination: 14 weeks
• Booster shots: 6 months

Rabies

• First vaccination: 16 weeks (varies by state)
• Booster shots: 12-36 months

Giardia

• First vaccination: 14 weeks
• Second vaccination: 17 weeks
• Booster shots: 12 months

Lyme

• First vaccination: 14 weeks
• Second vaccination: 17 weeks
• Booster shots: 12 months

If you’ve ever found yourself wincing when your dog yawns or pants in your general direction, you are definitely not alone. Halitosis in dogs is so common that the term “dog breath” has become an idiom for stinky, off-putting breath. But before you buy a gas mask and resign yourself to your fate, take a few moments to learn about some possible causes of—and potential solutions for—your dog’s awful breath.

The “Tooth” of the Matter

Just because something is common doesn’t mean that it is healthy, and doggy halitosis is no exception. Even though most humans know to brush their teeth twice (maybe even three times) a day, a lot of us are much more lackadaisical about our dogs’ oral hygiene. And that is bad, because dogs can develop periodontal disease and tooth decay just like humans can.

Bad breath is often one of the first signs that something is amiss with your dog’s health, so if you notice that Mitten’s burps have become unpleasant enough to wilt roses, it wouldn’t be a bad idea to consult with her veterinarian. A typical health exam for a dog involves taking a peak at their teeth and gums, and the vet will be able to tell you whether or not they suspect dental issues are to blame for the foul odors your dog is exhaling. The vet might recommend a full-fledged “dental treatment,” in which your dog is placed under general anesthesia and her teeth are given a good brushing, polishing and flossing—you can even opt for x-rays, as well! If all of that seems a little excessive for a dog, please keep in mind that not taking care of your pet’s teeth can seriously impact their health and quality of life in the long-run. Gum disease, tooth decay, tooth loss, an increased risk of oral cancer, and diseases of the liver, kidneys, and/or heart have all been linked to poor dental hygiene.

Bottom line: your dog can’t really walk up to you and say, “This one tooth feels kinda loose,” or “My gums hurt, Mom.” Thus, you must be proactive about their oral health!

Halitosis Helper

Once your dog’s vet has taken care of any underlying health problems, then you can go about treating the bad breath itself. Fortunately, there are several products on the market that can help keep smelly breath at bay. Feel free to experiment or mix and match until you find something that your dog won’t fight you on!

Meat- or sweet-flavored toothpaste.

This isn’t technically a “food” per se, but brushing your dog’s teeth is one of the best at-home treatments that you can perform to keep their mouth healthy. And unlike toothpaste designed for humans (which you should never use on dogs), doggy toothpaste comes in flavors like chicken, beef, malt, vanilla or seafood. It is also safe to swallow, so if you need to let your dog lick some off the brush or out of the tube before he will tolerate having his teeth scrubbed, then it is okay to do so.

Hard or crunchy chew toys.

Few dogs can resist the allure of a good chew toy, so why not give them one that’s entertaining and cleans their mouth? When dogs gnaw on hard toys, the material scrapes and grinds against their teeth, and this motion can assist with breaking up and removing plaque deposits—feeding your dog high-quality dry food can have a similar effect. Old-fashioned rawhide can be great for this, but most pet stores also carry treats specifically designed to freshen your dog’s breath. Rope toys can also “floss” away gunk that’s stuck between a dog’s teeth, but do NOT let Spot actually ingest the rope!

Treats containing chlorophyll, cinnamon, or cloves.

These ingredients are natural, dog-safe, and can do wonders for eliminating the odor-causing bacteria in Sparky’s mouth. And if you can give these substances to your dog in hard biscuit form, so much for the better!

Certain raw fruits and veggies.

Baby carrots, sliced apples (without the seeds), cucumbers and celery are low-calorie, rich in nutrients, safe for dogs and have that tooth-cleaning crunch that is so helpful for chasing away bad breath. Do go easy on the “people food” though—any of these treats in large amounts have the potential to upset your pooch’s stomach, especially if he is not used to eating them.

High-quality large breed kibble dog food.

If your dog is constantly having issues with her teeth and breath, your vet might recommend you start feeding her a specific kind of food—one designed with oral care in mind. Food designed specifically for large dogs with bigger kibble, like our Muenster Natural Large Breed formula, means more chewing for your dog instead of them swallowing the kibble bits whole. Much like the hard or crunchy chew toys recommended above, the food bits scrape against their teeth and help clean away plaque and build up.

Final Thoughts

The problem with trying to “cure” bad breath in dogs is that the foul odor is often just a symptom of a larger problem. You can feed Rocket as many doggy breath mints as you would like, but they are not going to fix the rotten tooth in the back of his mouth that is actually causing the odor. That is why it is imperative that any attempts to cure your dog’s halitosis start with a visit to your regular veterinarian! Once you know that the problem isn’t serious (maybe Ginger just needs to stop treating the cat’s litter box like a buffet!), then you can try a more creative solution.

Your dog’s breath may never be exactly “kissing fresh.” However, it also shouldn’t make your eyes water when he yawns in your face!

Every October 31, trick-or-treaters return home with pumpkin-shaped baskets overflowing with fun-sized Snickers bars, Runts, Sweetarts and the occasional (and unfortunate) mini package of raisins. But it’s not just kids who can make themselves sick on sweets — Halloween candy can be especially toxic to dogs.

Never share Halloween candy with your pet. What is delicious to us can be very harmful to your cat or dog.  The pile of sweets can be dangerously tempting to the family pet, so it’s important to keep it well out of paw’s reach and avoid problems down the road.

So what Halloween hazards should pet parents be most concerned about? Here are some of the top candies that can cause problems on the most spooky of nights:

Chocolate

Most pet owners are already well aware that chocolate and dogs just don’t mix (unless we’re talking chocolate labs), but sometimes only a small piece can be cause for concern. Larger dogs can typically ingest more chocolate than smaller breeds without consequence — so a Great Dane may be able to eat a few Hershey’s Kisses without symptoms, while a Chihuahua will suffer immediately. (That still doesn’t mean any dog should do it!)

The type of chocolate can also influence a dog’s reaction. Chocolate contains methylxanthines (such as caffeine and theobromine), and dogs are much more sensitive to these than people are. Methylxanthines are found in all chocolates to varying degrees. White chocolate contains less than milk chocolate, while milk chocolate contains less than dark or semisweet chocolate. Dark and semisweet chocolate have the greatest probability of being harmful to your dog. 

If your dog manages to get into the candy basket, watch for signs of chocolate toxicity, such as gastrointestinal upset (vomiting, diarrhea), as well as increased heart and respiratory rates, muscle rigidity and, in certain serious cases, seizures, cardiac failure and coma.

No matter the amount of chocolate, it’s a good idea to call your emergency vet or the pet poison helpline immediately, and only attempt to treat or induce vomiting with explicit instructions from a professional.

Candy corn and super sugary treats

Chocolate isn’t the only reason to keep Halloween candy well out of your pet’s reach. Rich, sugary snacks such as candy corn and caramels can cause serious stomach upset in pets.

Halloween and Thanksgiving are often a time to indulge in rich, fattening foods but it is best not to share these with your pets and instead keep them on their usual diets. These rich foods can result in pancreatitis, a painful inflammation of the pancreas that is manifested by vomiting and diarrhea.

This potentially fatal condition can take time to develop, so it may be between two and four days before your dog shows symptoms of sneaky candy consumption. Pet owners who notice their dog chowing down on the Hot Tamales should call their vet, and keep an eye out for any behavior out of the usual.

Grapes and raisins (and Raisinets)

A neighbor may have good intentions handing out grapes or boxes of raisins to trick-or-treaters, but the fruit can be incredibly poisonous to dogs.

It can only take a small amount to produce critical results in pets, so any type of consumption should be treated as poisoning. If that same sweet tooth leads dogs to a bag of grapes or raisins, the situation can turn dire, and these items can cause kidney failure in dogs. Pet owners should watch for symptoms such as lethargy, nausea, vomiting, abdominal pain and severe kidney failure, and call a vet or poison helpline immediately.

Sugar-free candy

Chances are, kids are not that excited about finding sugar-free gum among their booty, but dogs will not be so discerning. Candy with artificial sweetener xylitol can also be toxic to dogs. Signs of xylitol toxicity in dogs include decreased blood pressure, coordination loss and seizures.

Candy wrappers

It’s not just what’s inside that counts — candy wrappers can also cause serious problems for pets when ingested. If a pup gobbles down the wrapper and all, the pesky plastic or tinfoil packaging can lead to intestinal obstructions, which may require X-rays and surgery to fix.

To avoid a costly and stressful trip to the vet this fall, it’s best to keep the candy in a safe, secure place where dogs can’t reach it.

Much like humans, dogs cough for a lot of different reasons, some mostly harmless, and some quite serious. Generally speaking, if your dog only coughs once in a blue moon and it passes quickly, there’s no cause for concern. But if your canine family member is coughing a lot or has intense coughing spells, you should make an appointment with your veterinarian. A persistent cough is a red flag that your dog probably has an underlying problem that needs to be addressed.

The following are some of the more common causes of canine coughs and what you should know about them.

1. Foreign object lodged in the throat — A cough that grows suddenly violent or sounds more like gagging, especially when accompanied by lip licking or attempts to swallow, could be a sign your dog has a sore throat or something stuck in her throat.

If she’s outside when she begins coughing or has just come in from outdoors, she may have swallowed or inhaled a grass seed or other foreign object and it has become wedged in her throat. If she can’t seem to cough up whatever it is, it’s time to make an appointment with your veterinarian to prevent a potential infection or even pneumonia.

2. Reverse sneezing — Reverse sneezing is a common condition in small breed dogs and also brachycephalic (flat-faced) breeds. While a reverse sneeze is not a cough, the sound can be mistaken for coughing or choking. Reverse sneezing is caused by a spasm of the throat and soft palate that is triggered by an irritant, which can include simple excitement, exercise, a collar that’s too tight, pollen or even a sudden change in temperature.

In a regular sneeze, air is pushed out through the nose. In a reverse sneeze, air is instead pulled rapidly and noisily in through the nose. The sound of a reverse sneeze can be upsetting, and many dog parents wonder if their pet is choking or having an asthma attack. Some dogs who reverse sneeze also tend to stand with elbows spread apart, head extended or back and eyes bulging.

Most cases of reverse sneezing don’t require treatment. However, it’s a good idea to keep track of when the episodes occur so you can determine what the probable triggers are and try to avoid them. If the sneezing becomes chronic or episodes become more frequent or longer in duration, it’s a good idea to make an appointment with your veterinarian to rule out other potential health problems.

3. Kennel cough — A sudden persistent cough in an otherwise healthy dog is often due to kennel cough or another similar viral or bacterial infection. These infections tend to produce deep, dry hacking coughs, sneezing, snorting, gagging and in some cases, vomiting.

There can also be coughing “fits” or spasms if the dog becomes excited or while exercising. If your dog has recently been in contact with other dogs, he may have contracted a kennel cough infection. Symptoms usually appear from two to 14 days after exposure, last between 10 and 20 days, and can recur during periods of stress.

Most of these infections are mild and resolve without medical intervention. Many veterinarians immediately prescribe antibiotics, but I absolutely do not agree with that approach. I prefer to let a dog’s body heal itself naturally, as long as he’s otherwise healthy.

Complete recovery from kennel cough can take up to three weeks in healthy dogs, and twice as long in older pets and those with underlying immunosuppressive conditions. Puppies can also take a bit longer to recover.

Since a serious episode of kennel cough can result in pneumonia, if your dog doesn’t start to improve on his own with the support of nontoxic remedies (such as nosodes, slippery elm bark, Echinacea, goldenseal and olive leaf), or if the cough becomes progressively worse, it’s important to make an appointment with your veterinarian to be on the safe side.

4. Pneumonia — If your dog’s cough sounds wet or is productive, it could be the result of a buildup of fluid in the lungs. Fluid or phlegm in the lungs is a red flag for pneumonia, which can have a variety of causes. Other symptoms include loss of appetite, weight loss, fever, lethargy and difficulty breathing.

Bacterial pneumonia is caused by a pathogen, and there are several organisms that can result in infection. Typically your dog will require antimicrobial drugs, rest, immune support and specific supportive therapies. Fungal pneumonia is the result of a deep fungal lung infection, and is more difficult to treat. Since many dogs don’t respond to anti-fungal drugs, the precise treatment for fungal pneumonia will depend on what type of fungus has caused the infection.

I recommend you ask your veterinarian about inhalation therapy, which is one of the most effective, direct ways to treat these types of lung infections. Another type of pneumonia is aspiration pneumonia, also called inhalation pneumonia. This is a condition in which the lungs become inflamed and infected as the result of breathing in a foreign substance like vomit, regurgitated gastric acid or food.

Aspiration pneumonia is life threatening, and the prognosis for most dogs with the condition is poor, so the goal should always be prevention. If you suspect your dog has aspirated something, it’s important to get her to your veterinarian or an emergency animal clinic right away.

5. Collapsing trachea — A recurrent, episodic cough that sounds like a goose honk can be a sign of a collapsing trachea — especially if your dog is a small breed. Tracheal collapse is a chronic, progressive disease that can be either congenital or acquired. Dogs with the condition also typically show signs of exercise intolerance, respiratory distress and gagging while eating or drinking.

Treatment options for a collapsing trachea include medical management, which works for about 70 percent of dogs with a mild form of the condition. More serious cases often require highly specialized surgery. Cartilage building supplements are also given to maintain the integrity of tracheal cartilage.

6. Heart disease — Coughing is unfortunately also a symptom of heart disease in dogs. Other signs include a bluish color to the tongue, loss of appetite, fatigue, weakness, decreased exercise endurance, a too-fast or too-slow heartbeat and difficulty breathing. If your dog has been diagnosed with a heart condition and coughs mainly while he’s resting, lying down or at night, it could be a sign the disease is progressing.

Treatment of heart disease in dogs depends on a variety of factors including the severity of the problem, the age and health of the animal, cost of treatment and other considerations. A visit to a board-certified veterinary cardiologist can provide more information about the severity of your dog’s condition.

There are a variety of natural therapies that can support a weakened cardiovascular system, so consult your holistic veterinarian for the best options for your pet’s individual situation.

Other conditions that can cause coughing in your dog include chronic bronchitis, heartworm disease and some types of cancer. If your dog’s cough doesn’t resolve quickly on its own, it should be investigated, and the sooner you make an appointment with your veterinarian, the better your pet’s chances for either a full recovery or a well-managed condition.

All dogs lick, but some dogs lick in excess. There is often a behavioral or medical reason for the licking.

BEHAVIORAL REASONS WHY DOGS LICK

Behavioral reasons for why a dog licks are far more common than medical reasons. It is not usually the sign of a serious health condition. This behavior might include the dog licking or grooming themselves, furniture or other surfaces, and even you! Dogs may lick because they like the salty taste of their owner’s skin, as a sign of affection, or out of habit and boredom. Licking can also be calming or soothing, much like when people receive a relaxing massage.

When behavior driven licking is excessive, resulting in hot spots, hair loss, or skin irritation avoid punishing your dog. Redirect their focus by giving alternative activities to keep them occupied. Positive reinforcement training can also help curb licking behavior by rewarding your dog when they perform the desired behavior. For example, rewarding your dog for stopping their licking when you say “Leave it.”

BEHAVIORAL REASONS

1. Boredom and/or anxiousness
2. To calm or soothe
3. Affection for the person or animal they are licking
4. Habit
5. Like the taste

MEDICAL REASONS WHY DOG LICK

Excessive licking or licking more than usual could be the sign of an underlying medical issue. Signs of excessive licking will often resemble those caused by behavioral licking (hair loss, irritation, etc.).

Potential medical causes for licking include allergies that cause the skin or paws to itch. Infections from bacteria, fungus or parasites can also cause itchiness and therefore lead to excessive licking. Underlying pain from an injury or arthritis can cause dogs to lick, similar to when a person rubs a sore muscle or joint. The licking releases endorphins, which are the body’s natural pain killers, to help soothe the pain. A final cause of licking can be from gastrointestinal issues. To relieve the issue a dog might lick strange surfaces, but not usually itself.

If a cause is thought to be medical, a consultation with your veterinarian is required to diagnose and treat your dog’s condition.

MEDICAL REASONS

1. Allergies
2. Infection
3. Underlying pain
4. GI issues

Materials

• Your Choice of Fabric Remnants
• Your Choice of Ribbon, Trim, or Sequins
• Hot Glue & Glue Gun
• Scissors
• Dog Collar

Dog Collar Sleeves Tutorial

1. Gather fabric scraps or remnants from your local fabric store. Use your dog’s collar to measure how much fabric you will need to wrap around it. If your collar has a buckle, be sure you leave enough room so that you don’t cover the buckle holes.

2. Wrap your fabric around the collar so that ends overlap one another. this part is very important, you don’t want to get any hot glue on your collar! Trim excess fabric. Place a thin line of hot glue between the two overlapping layers and press down gently to bond. Once your sleeve is glued it should look just like a sleeve/tube, and it should easily slide on and off of your collar.

3. Next is the fun part! If you want to add a bit of glam to your sleeve try adding your choice of ribbon or trim as a garnish. Just secure with a bit of hot glue and let set to dry. Have fun!

Just like their owners, dogs can show allergic symptoms when their immune systems begin to recognize certain everyday substances and allergens as dangerous. Fall dog allergies become problematic when your dog inhales or ingests allergens, or even when they come in contact with your dog’s skin. As a dog’s body tries to rid itself of these substances, a variety of skin, digestive, and respiratory symptoms can appear, which is why you should know what signs to look for in your dog.

Although fall does not have all the blooms and new growths that bother many, such as pollen and grass, it does have dying plants, wind, moisture, and chillier temperatures that can stir up irritants. The fall also brings mold, which has the ability to negatively affect your pet whether he or she is allergic or not. Fall dog allergies stink, trust us we know.

However, some veterinarians say that seasonal allergies are not limited to springtime, and that pets with fall symptoms are often allergic to weeds that pollinate in the fall, especially ragweed. Other weeds that are known to cause allergic reactions in the fall include sagebrush, Russian thistle, plantain, cocklebur, and lamb’s-quarters.

Common signs of fall dog allergies can include:

• Nasal and eye discharge
• Puffy red eyes
• Ear infections
• Pruritus (itching/scratching, licking/chewing at body parts)
• Fur loss or color change (tears and saliva contain porphyrins, which stain light colored fur pink to brown)
• Itchy, red, moist or scabbed skin
• Itchy, runny eyes
• Diarrhea
• Sneezing
• Coughing
• Vomiting

What do I do if I think my dog has allergies?

You should visit your veterinarian, who will then take a complete history and conduct a physical examination, and hopefully then be able to determine the source of your dog’s allergic reaction. If this isn’t the case, your vet will likely recommend skin or blood tests, or a special elimination diet to get to the root of the problem.

What are some common fall dog allergies we see?

There aren’t really any specific “fall” allergies, but there are some that tend to surface with seasonal changes. Below are a few general ones that are good to be aware of.

• Trees, grass, and pollens
• Mold spores
• Dander
• Feathers
• Fleas and flea-control products
• Rubber and plastic materials
• Fabrics

Immune systems for most canines will adapt to the seasonal changes we experience. However, with animals that aren’t quite able to self-adjust, we as pet owners sometimes need to step in and intervene with eye/ear drops, oral or injectable medications, nutraceuticals, baths, conditioning rinses, and more.

There are a ton of factors that can play a part in affecting your dog’s immune system health, likely making the management of his or her allergies complicated. Allergens will cling to your canine’s coat. Rover is outside sniffing around, breathing in and walking through potential allergens all the time. Also, dogs are only able to sweat through the pads of their feet and the tip of their nose, so they become like wet ‘Swiffer’ pads during allergy season. They’re collecting billions of allergens on and in their bodies throughout the warm months of the year.

8 Tips for Managing Fall Dog Allergies:

The first step is a veterinary evaluation to ensure your pet doesn’t have a secondary bacterial infection that requires antibiotics.

Bathe your dog after camping, hiking, etc. If your pet has irritated skin, bathing will rinse the allergens away and make your canine feel better immediately. Don’t be shy about how often you bathe your pet, especially if he or she is suffering from allergies that itch and irritate her skin. Discuss with your veterinarian what prescription shampoos are best, as frequent bathing with the wrong product can dry out skin.

Foot soaks after outdoor adventures are also a great way to reduce the amount of allergens your pet tracks into the house and spreads all over his or her indoor environment.

Use topical and/or oral anti-parasite (flea, tick, etc.) treatments per the guidance of your veterinarian.

Use an over-the-counter eye irrigating solution to rinse your pet’s eyes on an as needed basis.

Vacuum all carpeting and upholstery and wash all pet and human bedding at least once every seven days.

Start a flea control program for all of your pets before the season starts. Remember, outdoor pets can carry fleas inside to indoor pets. See your veterinarian for advice about the best flea control products for your dog and the environment.

Provide a moist, freshly prepared, whole food-based diet having human-grade protein, vegetables, fruits, fat, and fiber. Avoid ingredients that are lacking in protein and grain “meals and by-products,” artificial colors and flavors, moistening agents (propylene glycol, carrageenan, etc.), sugar, rendered fat, and other feed-grade components (as typically go into commercially available dog and cat foods)

They may not be able to talk, but dogs can use many other methods of communication to interact with us. Sometimes, whining is one of those methods. Whining can be cute, but if it goes on for long periods, or becomes a regular habit, it can get aggravating. If you want to stop your dog from whining, you first have to understand why he is whining. Let’s take a look at some of the possible reasons.

1. He Needs/Wants Something

The most obvious reason your dog may be whining is that he needs or wants something from you, like food, water, or a walk. Maybe his favorite toy is stuck underneath the couch, or the cat is sleeping in his bed. The whining should stop once you identify the problem and fix it.

However, if your dog is whining for more food after you just fed him, this is a problem that needs to be corrected. Make sure no one in the family is giving your furry companion extra helpings, and never feed your dog from the table. If you give your dog more food in response to his whining, the behavior will only get worse.

Additionally, if your dog is whining for another walk after you just took him out, this could indicate a bladder problem or a digestive problem. If your dog has to go again as soon as you come back inside, you should take him to the vet.

2. He’s Whining for Attention

Sometimes dogs whine just because no one is paying attention to them. This is similar to how little kids whine when they’re bored with the grownup talk at the dinner table. Your dog wants someone to play with or something to occupy him.

Make sure you’re giving your dog enough exercise and mental stimulation each day. Boredom doesn’t just lead to whining; it can also lead to destructive behaviors, such as chewing on the furniture and digging up the flower beds.

3. He’s Scared or Stressed

Whining can be your dog’s way of saying that he is scared or anxious. If your dog is also pacing, trembling, or panting while whining, he is likely fearful or anxious about something. Perhaps there is a new guest or resident in the house making your dog nervous, or perhaps he is worried because someone is missing.

If your dog is whining anxiously right before you leave the house, this could indicate separation anxiety. Dogs with separation anxiety often engage in destructive behaviors while you are gone.  You can treat your dog’s separation anxiety by using these desensitization and counter-conditioning techniques.

4. He’s in Pain

Whining could be an indication that your dog is in some kind of physical distress. If he whines every time he tries to go up the stairs or jump on the couch, he may have joint pain because of arthritis.

If there is no obvious reason why your dog is whining, (all his needs are met and there is nothing to make him anxious) you should take your dog to the vet to get him checked out.

5. He’s Saying He’s Sorry

Whining can be a submissive behavior — a way of saying “You’re the boss.” When you scold your dog for chewing your shoes or tipping over the trash can, he might whine as part of his apology.

This behavior comes from dogs’ ancestors, wolves. Wolves can be shunned from the pack when they break the pack rules, like biting too hard during play. To be accepted back in, a wolf will bow his head and put his tail between his legs. This is the same posture our dogs display when they look guilty.

If your dog is whining to apologize to you, simply acknowledge his apology, and walk away. This sends a signal to your dog that he has been welcomed back.

Every dog owner has wondered at one point or another – while enjoying their delicious French fries, tater tots, hash browns, etc.

“Should I give into the puppy eyes and feed them a few?”

While you may not be able to resist those majestic eyes, it’s important to first confirm the facts. So, can dogs eat potatoes?

The answer to this is: it depends.

Potatoes do contain vitamin B6, Vitamin C, Magnesium, Iron and other important nutrients that a dog requires, but, if you do not prepare the potatoes properly, or, if you feed your precious puppy too many potatoes, it can lead to adverse health effects.

Now, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration recently released a report on a disease known as canine dilated cardiomyopathy (DCM), which is a disease that affects the heart muscles and leads to a reduction in the heart pumping function or an increase in the heart size.

This can result in severe consequences and even lead to heart failure.

Research shows that DCM is a genetic condition, but it can also be caused by other factors such as feeding dogs foods that contain peas, legumes or potato as the main ingredient.

Are potatoes toxic to dogs?

This really depends on how you feed the potato to your dog.

If you feed your dog raw potatoes, they are toxic. On the other hand, baked or boiled potatoes that have nothing added to them are okay. The reason for this is that; Raw potatoes belong to the nightshade family of vegetables, which includes tomatoes as well.

These types of vegetables normally contain solanine which is a toxic substance. When you cook the potato, you reduce the level of solanine and the potato ceases to be toxic.

Your dog is essentially supposed to receive most of their nutrients from animal products, so, if you are going to include potatoes in their diet, ensure to do it in small quantities, and remember that too many carbohydrates can lead to obesity.

What is green potato poisoning?

Now, while feeding your dog cooked potato is safe, you should always check the potato you are about to prepare.

 First of all, NEVER feed your dog the potato skin as this is very toxic for him. 

Secondly, always check the potato before you prepare it. If you find that the skin of the potato is green, that potato is not good for your dog. The green color on the potato means it has high levels of solanine. This will cause poisoning to your dog, and irritate his esophagus and stomach lining.

Cooking a green potato does not destroy the solanine; and so you must always avoid the green-skinned potatoes. The raw potato skin contains a chemical known as chaconine and this can cause irritation to their nervous system and leads to tremors and kidney failure.If you suspect that your dog has consumed too much solanine, you should call your veterinarian immediately.

Symptoms of solanine poisoning in dogs

The symptoms will vary depending on how much chaconine or solanine your dog has consumed, and also the health status and size of your dog.

In most cases, it will be mild unless you have a very small dog.

The most common symptoms are:

• burning of the throat.
• fever
• cardiac dysrhythmia
• difficulty breathing
• gastrointestinal symptoms
• abdominal pain such as diarrhea and nausea
• excess drooling
• delirium
• dizziness
• dilated pupils
• heart problems
• headache
• loss of sensation
• jaundice
• numbness and burning sensation of the tongue
• low body temperature (hypothermia)
• mouth, and lips paralysis
• slow pulse
• shock
• seizures
• swelling of tongue or lips
• slowed breathing
• vision changes
• vomiting
• trembling
• weakness
• in some cases, death.

What causes green potato poisoning in dogs?

The symptoms of solanine poisoning occur as a result of the interruption of a chemical known as acetylcholine, whose main function is to transmit nerve impulses.

This chemical – solanine, is also known to cause irritation of the intestinal tract and it is found in:

• green potatoes
• potato foliage
• raw potato skins
• sprouts that are grown on potatoes.

Diagnosis of solanine in dogs

When you take the dog to the vet as a result of potato poisoning, he will want to know what he consumed exactly, and how much of it he consumed. You should also let him know your dog’s medical history and this will include any illnesses and injuries he may have suffered.

The vet will then conduct a comprehensive medical examination which includes taking his temperature, height, weight, reflexes, pulses, breathing rate and blood pressure.

He/she will also conduct some tests, like:

• a complete blood count
• blood gas
• chemical panel
• urinalysis
• glucose level
• liver and kidney functions
• chest x-rays
• and ECG – Electrocardiogram to monitor the dog’s heart rate.

If the chest x-ray will shows abnormalities, they will be required to do an ultrasound, CT scan and MRI, in order to better understand what is happening to your dog.

Treatment of solanine poisoning

The first course of treatment will involve giving apomorphine in order to induce vomiting, and also activated charcoal to absorb the toxins that may be in the stomach.

The vet will then sedate your dog and provide him with some IV fluids with oxygen therapy.

If they suspect there are still some toxins in your dog’s tummy, they will be required to perform a gastric lavage which is the procedure of inserting a tube down your dog’s mouth in order to be able to flush out the stomach with a saline solution.

They will then give medication such as, Pilocarpine and Physostigmine, which may help in boosting your dog’s nervous system.

Recovery from Solanine poisoning

In order to help your dog recover, you will need to provide a quiet resting place. Give him plenty of comfort and ensure he takes his medication as prescribed.

Final say on dogs eating potatoes

In order to prevent this from happening, ensure to keep all potatoes and potato skins far from your dog’s reach!

Although potatoes are not toxic when cooked, it is better not to give any of it to your dog, as there are other better sources of nutrients that your dog can have. Instead of cooked potatoes, you could give baby carrots, pumpkin, fresh green beans or small apple slices.

These alternatives are actually healthier compared to any form of potato.